Last time I reviewed two huge pumpkin beers, each
weighing in around a hefty 8.5% alcohol.
I like a good strong beer and drink them fairly often, but sometimes I
like it when I can drink several beers in one sitting without needing to lean
on something when I stand up. An 8.5%
behemoth like Pumking just won’t do in that case; you need something more
reasonable. Oftentimes this means
sacrificing flavor intensity for drinkability; a weaker beer is made with fewer
ingredients, and fewer ingredients mean fewer flavors. This is why, say, Keystone Light tastes like
carbonated rice water.
Fortunately, O’Fallon Brewery out of Missouri does not
seem to like watery beer. Prior to
trying their Pumpkin Ale a few days ago, the only other beer of theirs I ever
drank was Smoke---a porter brewed with smoked barley. It might be the most intensely smoky beer I
have ever tasted, even more than much stronger beers. I pretty much expected the same treatment
with their Pumpkin beer, but they made a very approachable and quaffable beer
instead. I don’t mind.
If I was holding this up to the light, you'd see it is actually a bit brighter. |
O’Fallon Pumpkin is a much brighter-colored beer than the
previous two pumpkin beers I reviewed, though it is a touch hazier. Underneath the golden-amber color is a spirited
carbonation level chock full of fine bubbles, leaving a film of lacing around
the glass edges. It can never get beyond
half a finger in height though.
O’Fallon’s website says they brew this beer with 136
pounds of pumpkins per barrel and then finish it off with a spice mixture of
cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves (the label says it is brewed with pureed pumpkin
and a “spice tea”). That much pumpkin
sounds like overkill, but it doesn’t smell overpowering. I can appreciate a more distinct pumpkin
aroma than Pumking, but it does not have the rich pumpkin pie spice aroma that
Pumking does. O’Fallon seems content to
let the gourd itself shine. I do smell
the cloves though; it gives the beer an almost hefeweizen-esque character (almost),
When I first sip it, the beer drinks the same each
time. There is a balanced, delicious
pumpkin flavor right away, followed by a quick dash of cinnamon. The finish is long, but slightly different
with each sip. One time I taste mostly
cloves, and another time I taste a bit more nutmeg. One sip gave me the only hint of the
underlying malt bill, a simple cereal grain flavor that reminded me a bit of a
bock actually. The evolving, kaleidoscopic
finish keeps it interesting. The
aggressive carbonation keeps it light and a bit airy, the lack of malt
sweetness/underdeveloped body being this beer’s only minor issue.
This is a great beer for both slow sipping and multiple
pours. A solid “B” here.
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