I have had at least one of each of the following stouts
since my last post:
Central Waters Bourbon Barrel Stout 2012 and 2011
Dark Horse Too Cream Stout
Dark Horse Tres Blueberry Stout
Dark Horse Fore Smoked Stout
Founders Imperial stout
Great Lakes Blackout Stout
Goose Island Night Stalker 2012
Goose Island Big John 2012
Goose Island Bourbon County Stout 2012
Old Dominion Oak Barrel Stout
Sierra Nevada Narwhal
First, the Goose Island Stouts, since they are the only
ones anyone talks about. Goose Island
makes a beer called Cook County Stout. You
have never seen this beer because they have never bottled this beer; instead,
they take it, do a bunch of weird crap to it, and then sell it under a different
name. When Cook County Stout is brewed
with coco beans, it becomes Big John.
When it is intensely dry-hopped, it becomes Night Stalker. When Cook County Stout is aged in bourbon
barrels, it becomes the well-known Bourbon County Brand Stout, or BCS (Bourbon
County Coffee Stout is the same thing, but with coffee added). Prior to December 2012, I had previously had
Bourbon County 2008 and 2009, and Night Stalker 2010 and 2011. This is my first time having Big John.
Since they all start out as the same beer, it’s no
surprise they all look nearly identical: inky black.
Note the existence of flash in this picture. Note also it doesn't make a difference, as no light will ever penetrate this beer... |
This is what Goose Island thinks this beer looks like. Note the foam is clearly photoshopped; you will never get that much no matter how hard you pour. |
The barrel-aging
on BCS gives the minimal foam a slightly different color, but as you can see there’s not
much foam at all. Same deal with Big
John. Night Stalker has much more foam
from the extra hopping. This year’s
Night Stalker has been widely reported to have some major brewing defects,
though the bottle I had was fine.
This is the smoothest one yet: the least hoppy but also the least
boozy. I still think the 2010 has been
the best so far---it was one of the most breathtakingly hoppy beers I have ever
tasted---but this is better than 2011.
As the previous batches mellowed they became chocolate bombs, so I’m
putting two away for some short-term aging.
Speaking of chocolate, Big John doesn’t have enough of it. I expected more from a beer that says coco
nibs right on the label, but it’s very mild.
In fact, year-old Night Stalker has more chocolate flavor and it isn’t
even made with chocolate of any kind.
Apart from having too-little chocolate and a faint hint of teriyaki as
the beer warmed up, this was a pretty good, pretty mellow imperial stout. It isn’t at all what I expected from a Goose
Island stout.
Bourbon County Stout is not the same beer it used to be,
and that is a good thing in my mind.
Though this stuff flies off the shelves now, it used to sit on shelves
for months at a time or even up to a year, for good reason: it used to taste
vile when fresh. It smelled more like
bottom-shelf plastic handle whiskey than an actual bottle of bottom-shelf
plastic handle whiskey, and it tasted like someone poured said whiskey over
blacktop pavement sprinkled with cigarette ashes---and then asked you to lick
it. It also burned more than some
Scotches I’ve had, no mean feat for something that’s not even half as alcoholic
as the weakest Scotch. People drank it,
but not until aging it for a year or three first, and having had the 2009 with
two years on it I must say it tasted pretty good by that point. This latest batch, by contrast, is
promising. Is it a little messy? Yes; it has a bit too much heat going down,
and still has some ashy flavors. But it
doesn’t burn, and has some underlying roasted flavors to let me know I’m not
drinking watered-down bourbon. And on
the bourbon front, I can taste some molasses and vanilla, flavors which I
couldn’t pick up in the older batches when they were this fresh (they may have been
there, but I was too busy using a fire extinguisher as a chaser to notice
them). Bourbon County now
tastes like slightly uneven beer, not bottled train wreck.
Bottom line, all were pretty tasty, but Bourbon County
edges out Night Stalker. Three or four
years ago, there is no way I would have said that. A few years ago the bulk price for BCS went
up nearly 25%, from $17.99 per four-pack to $21.99/$22.99. I think this is when
they started aging it longer, which is why it’s so much smoother now. This is a good thing, but by contrast I think
Big John and this year’s Night Stalker are a little too tame. I seem to be lucky not to have gotten a bad
bottle of Night Stalker; there are widespread reports of quality control issues
with this batch, everything from souring infection to yeast death.
I tasted these and they aren't my cup of tea, but if you like the really dark, dark dank beers, then so be it and enjoy!
ReplyDelete